Hong Kong has 61 Michelin star restaurants in the 2013 Hong Kong and Macau Michelin Guide. First released in 2009,  about one-fifth of the total listings are of so-called simple-shop restaurants, which serve basic local fare like noodles and congee. By day, I made it my mission to seek out a few of the affordable one star Michelin eateries while exploring the city. Attaining the Michelin one star rating for these traditional noodle and dim sum restaurants can catapult them to instant fame as it did for Ho Hung Kee in 2010 and dim sum restaurant Tim Ho Wan the year after. Both retained their stars in 2012 and 2013.

After dining at Ho Hung Kee, the next obvious choice was Tim Ho Wan. But, even though I wanted to try their dim sum and see what everyone was raving about, I wasn’t willing to stand in line for 2 hours at their original tiny shop in Mong Kok (mixed reviews of their newer second location and the recently opened store in the MTR Hong Kong Station did not appeal to me).

Instead I decided to walk to Din Tai Fung in the Silvercord shopping mall (Tsim Sha Tsui) – it was within walking distance of our hotel, so battling crowds and navigating subways wasn’t required – a Win Win, especially since it was raining. It’s bad enough walking among hoards of people, but with umbrellas, it becomes a tedious, potentially dangerous obstacle course.

Din Tai Fung originated in Taiwan where it was founded in 1958 by Bingyi Yang who moved to Taiwan in 1948 from Shanxi, China. Din Tai Fung is known for their xiaolongbao (small steamed buns). I didn’t realize this at the time, but Din Tai Fung is a franchise (a very expensive one) and a burgeoning worldwide brand with branches in Singapore, Thailand, Australia, China, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, South Korea, and USA.

In 2009, Din Tai Fung’s first Hong Kong branch at Tsim Sha Tsui, Silvercord Branch, was awarded one Michelin star by the Hong Kong and Macau 2010 edition of the Michelin Guide. They received the honor again in the 2010 along with the restaurant’s second branch in Hong Kong at Causeway Bay, Yee Wo Branch. Din Tai Fung, Silvercord Branch, which is where I dined, was again awarded one Michelin star in the 2013 edition of the Michelin Guide and, from what I experienced during my lunch visit, I think it’s well deserved…and definitely affordable.

Low intimidation factor: there are cards on each table offering directions on how to correctly eat XiaoLongBao  :)

I arrived just before noon and as a party of one, was seated immediately even though a queue had already formed. The restaurant was filled with large parties of Chinese families, business people lunching, couples, and obvious tourists besides myself.  Keep in mind, that many casual Asian restaurants will seat you at a share table or ask you if you are OK with sharing a table with others. Just say, “Yes”.

Now that you know, Din Tai Fung is a franchise, don’t let that dissuade you in any way. In fact, this may be comforting to many tourists who are skeptical about dining in smaller local restaurants. With an emphasis on fresh quality ingredients and superior cooking techniques, Din Tai Fung’s food preparation and cooking methods have been standardized worldwide with an emphasis on strict quality standards. The service was efficient and everything from waitstaff, tableware and the space itself is bright and clean.

Din Tai Fung has an extensive menu of authentic soups, dumplings, rice, noodles, and popular meat and seafood dishes. With at least two pages devoted to different Asian vegetables and greens, it is also very vegetarian and vegan (just make sure no chicken on seafood stock is used) friendly.

Cucumber with chili and garlic had the right amount of heat for me, but you can add more with the condiments on the table.

Same with the Green Beans and Pork which still had a bit of crunch and weren’t overloaded with oil.

There are vegetarian dumplings stuffed with a greens mixture, I ordered ones with a bit of pork mixed in. The wraps are  thin and translucent with a pleasant snap when you bite into them. These are not the world famous XiaoLongBao soup dumplings specialty of Din Tai Fung , but they were still juicy, stuffed generously, and incredibly flavorful. All this and a bottomless pot of tea for HK $144.00 which is $18.55 USD – I consider that reasonable for a satisfying lunch.

Din Tai Fung

Silvercord Shopping Mall

20 Canton Rd. (Tsim Sha Tsui)

Hong Kong

Phone: +852 2730 6928

Eat well, live well and have a wonderful weekend!

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Ho Hung Kee, a tiny hole-in-the-wall noodle shop amidst the cacophony of Hong Kong’s Causeway Bay has once again been anointed  one star in the Michelin Guide 2013. All in all, Hong Kong has 61 restaurants with Michelin stars and a handful of the them afford working class locals and visitors a chance to experience authentic noodles, dim sum and Cantonese cuisine at an acclaimed one star without breaking the bank.

Listed as “simple shops” in the Michelin guide, Ho Hung Kee was first awarded a Michelin star in 2011. Still, little has changed at the heart of this eatery that began as a Wan Chai street stall in 1946 aside from progressing to an actual brick and mortar that’s not much larger than the average garage in America. According to the Where Hong Kong book in our room, the menu served today is the same as it was in the 60′s with traditional noodles and congee being their claim to fame.

I came for their famous noodles and my guide Jeannie filled me in on what makes Ho Hung Kee’s noodles more special than any other noodle place in Hong Kong. Unlike many shops whose noodles can be somewhat mushy, Ho Hung Kee’s have a slight crunch when you bite into the tangle of noodles dangling from your chopsticks; to use an Italian term, they’re pleasantly al dente, and swimming in a fragrant broth flavored with shrimp shells.

With a pot of Pu ‘er tea, a side of gai lan, an order of pork with house sauce (think shredded pork with a sweet/sour hot garlic sauce), and a few pickled vegetable condiments, a humble bowl of noodles is transformed into a colorful and satisfying meal (for two) – total cost: HK $148.00, about $19.00 USD.

If you’re not of Asian descent, you may be unfamiliar with congee – it looks a little like watery rice pudding or cream of wheat, but it’s a traditional dish that is much more than the sum of its parts. After simmering since the early hours of the morning a simple mixture of rice and water or broth is transformed into a creamy comfort food that is the Asian equivalent of our Chicken Noodle Soup – what your mother makes you when you’re down with a cold, an anti-inflammatory and, basically, a cure-all for the blues.

The happy cook stirring the congee.

Added bonus of interesting people watching: we had the brusque sounding waitresses, the happy cook who chattered and whistled while he worked  and the grumpy cook whose pained expression remained in place from the moment the galvanized aluminum door rolled up.

Alas, if you want to enjoy the old world ambiance of Ho Hung Kee, you’ll have to make it to 2 Sharp Street East before May, 2013. Our server explained to us (actually my guide) that they have opened a new location at a nearby glitzy mall so the owners could serve the droves that have come and expand the menu – but also because the landlord decided to triple their rent. See what happens when you earn a Michelin star! I mean, if you saw this place, you would know that capital improvements was certainly not the basis for the rent increase. There was construction going on – actually concrete being wheeled from a dilapidated building to a huge dumpster directly in front of the shop, but it served only as a conversation starter for those of us queued up.

Ho Hung Kee

2 Sharp Street East, Causeway Bay

2577 6558

 Stay tuned for more affordable eats in Hong Kong

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Be serenaded…

by a string quartet over scones, tea and gossip for English high tea at the iconic Peninsula Hotel in Hong Kong. Introduced by the English, afternoon tea is quite possibly the best colonial legacy in Hong Kong and the city’s luxury hoteliers have since perfected high tea in atmosphere, service and deliciousness to rival the finest in London.

Built in 1928, the grand lobby of the Peninsula remains the definitive spot for tea with all the trimmings just as it was 80 years ago during Hong Kong’s colonial days. We’re talking about an extravagant spread of dainty sandwiches, plump scones with clotted cream, and melt-in-your-mouth pastries served with milky Indian tea blends (Darjeeling, Assam) or Chinese favorites (Jasmine, Pu Er, Chrysanthemum) served with a sense of ceremony beneath the neo-classical arches of The Peninsula Lobby.

dainty tea sandwiches |the loftiest scones | sweet & savory melt-in-your-mouth pastries

delicate Chrysanthemum tea

Impeccable service

Evocative of olden days in Hong Kong, time stands still in the grand lobby.

Afternoon tea is served from 2:00 – 6:00 p.m.

Arrive early to join the queue

HK $318 for 1, 518 for 2, plus 10%*

This is a proper tea with a proper dress code – no flip flops, men – no tank tops, etc.

The Peninsula Hong Kong

Salisbury Road, Kowloon (Tsim Sha Tsui)

tel +852 2920 2888

*Check with hotel for current price.

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The Year of the Dragon is a tough act to follow considering it is the most desirable sign to be born under, has been the  symbol of royalty for thousands of years, and is believed to bring luck, strength, royalty, wisdom, and a promising future. Parents who follow Eastern astrology plan for their children to be born in the year of the powerful dragon, and do their utmost to avoid the cycle of the treacherous snake. Nevertheless, the dragon’s reign is over and the misunderstood snake is in the limelight beginning February 10, 2013.

Those born in the Year of the Snake: 1929, 1941, 1953,1965, 1977, 1989, and 2001 (and this year), can emerge from the dragon’s shadow as you are believed to be intuitive, introspective, insightful, intellectual; calm on the surface but passionate and intense underneath; determined to achieve success; and tending toward financial security. On the negative side, snakes can be cunning, scheming and suspicious of others. {Source: Orange County Register} Hmmm, today cunning and scheming seem to be traits necessary for survival in some arenas and suspicion of others is considered being cautious – just thinking aloud  Some notable figures born in the year of the snake are Aristotle Onassis, as well as Jackie Kennedy-Onassis (interesting), J.K. Rowling, Oprah Winfrey, Dick Cheney!, Charlie Sheen!, John Mayer!, Tom Brady! and Chris Brown!! You draw your own conclusions. To see more, refer to Monday’s paper or click on the Register link.

I live close to Westminster, known as Little Saigon in Orange County, and every year I enjoy a weekday afternoon off to absorb take in the sights, savor some Vietnamese cuisine, and take in this most important cultural celebration. The gift of Banh Chung during the New Year has become the most important tradition of Vietnamese culture and was passed down from one generation to the next. Always curious about the foods that play such an important role in cultural traditions, I attended a cooking demonstration by Chef Haley Nguyen of Xanh Bistro in Fountain Valley, CA and learned about the legend behind Banh Chung, how the rice cakes are made, and how it became a symbol of Tet.

 A traditional food gift for the Lunar New Year, Chef Haley Nguyen demonstrated the fine art of wrapping the square cakes of rice, mung bean and pork in banana leaves and then boiling them. In front of a small, but avid group of Vietnamese food and culture lovers, she shared a bit of the legend behind banh chung: rice is the staff of life for the people and the banana leaves signify the love of parents who would always protect their children; and the difference between square and round shapes (square cakes represent life on earth and is the tradition in northern Vietnam and the round shape stands for heaven above and is from the south).

Strip malls in Little Saigon are bustling with activity as families buy colorful tins of candy, blooming hyacinth, gladiolas and other springtime flowers and kumquat or orange trees to adorn their homes;  and gift-wrapped banh chung and sweet treats to bestow upon family and friends during the month-long celebration.

East meets West

Chinese astrology is based on the lunar year which begins the first day of the first lunar month, falling between mid-January and mid-February each year. Chinese astrology can be traced back 5,000 years and spread throughout Asia, like its western counterpart it uses 12 signs to chart basic character blueprints. The 12 signs of the Chinese zodiac are animals and the animals also cycle through the five elements: wood, fire, earth, metal and water. I was born in the sign of the Rooster and would bet that my element is earth because that’s my element of Virgo which is my sign in the western zodiac. Astrologer Donna Stellhorn doesn’t want people to think that those born in the year of the snake are bad – in the OC Register article she says we need their wisdom and caution. She is also convinced that there is growing interest in Chinese astrology outside Asian communities and offers more detailed analysis of each sign and predictions and prosperity tips on her website, 2013chineseastrology.com.

The week ahead brings the parades and pageantry of Tet Festival followed by 10 days of celebrating the Year of the Snake.

Chuc Mung Nam Moi!

© Priscilla for She's Cookin' | from the heart, 2013. | Permalink | 3 comments | Add to del.icio.us
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She was a day tripper, a Sunday driver yea
Took me so long to find out, and I found out

{Lyrics by the Beatles}

Last weekend  I took the brand new 2013 Acura ILX on a little daytrippin’ adventure that was like entering a time machine, going back to the Old West of Hollywood’s heyday and fast forwarding to an ultimate zen California-cool Eastern dining experience at renowned Nobu in Malibu.

My weekend adventure with the Acura ILX (#weekwithILX) started in Orange County with a smooth ride up the 405 freeway to the 101 North, past the Valley, exit Kanan Rd., wind through the picturesque hills of the Santa Monica Mountains for several miles down to a rustic bend in the road known as Cornell. Here you will find The Old Place -  a decidedly old place and proud of it.

The opening shot of Lori, the lovely wine angel at Cornell Wine Tasting Room next door, donning a seemingly golden illuminated halo, seemed to express the aura of this tiny hamlet tucked away in the Santa Monica Mountains and up the winding road from the beaches of Malibu. Surrounded by soaring trees and mountains in the distance, gray skies and drizzle easing into soft sunlight – the stunning natural beauty is a world away from urban Los Angeles.

I met up with two girlfriends, Rose and Myrlene, for a country-style brunch before whetting my whistle with wine…just so you know. The menu is short and sweet, but all one really needs for a satisfying breakfast that will stay with you through the day – or, in our case, until our dinner reservation at Nobu

We were seated in a large booth that can easily accommodate 6 people and chattered away, with me getting up to snap pictures, until a smiling young man, named Marco came around to ask us what we would like to drink. We were somewhat familiar with the history of the building and its storied past and Marco (picture below) filled in the gaps, effusively declaring Cornell and the surrounding area the best place in the world to live and work. He brought us a book on the area so we could see more historical photographs than those that adorn the walls of the small rustic space.

The service was casual and friendly. Courtney sat down with us to take our order and obliged our photos. We shared an order of wholesome Blue Cornmeal Flap Jacks with maple syrup, Goat Cheese, sundried tomato and grilled vegetable frittata, and an order of homemade Biscuits and sausage gravy - now you’re talking! I LOVE biscuits and gravy, but rarely make it at home anymore because it doesn’t quite fit  into hub’s low sodium diet

The atmosphere is casual and homey with Morgan, the son of original owner, Tom Runyon, who at 89 years of age, still ran the Old Place with his wife Barbara, carrying on the family business today. The Old Place was as unique as it’s owners, serving a menu that Tom would say was developed back in 1870. Steaks, cooked over a Red Oak fire, Clams and baked potatoes with crusty sourdough from the family that founded Pioneer bread. Back in the day, The Old Place was home to a very unique crowd that consists of colorful locals to the rich and famous: Steve McQueen, Jason Robards, Burgess Merideth, Sam Peckinpaw, and others. Who cares about the others, I could only imagine Steve McQueen bellied up to the bar with a brew in hand, especially after seeing the photo of he and Ali McGraw on the wall. Ahh, a girl can dream

The restaurant pays tribute to its past by featuring Tom’s original menu, Steaks, Clams and Baked potatoes, with stew on Sunday, but with the addition of a 4 other menu items including Pale Ale Chicken and nightly specials. They also cater to the wine tasters that now fill the canyon in search of local wines by offering a selection of appetizers that fill the void and appetites from 4-6pm. The full dinner menu is available from 6pm-10pm.

Speaking of wine, after our mid-day brunch we wandered over to the Cornell Winery Tasting Room – that’s where you can find Lori and a wonderful selection of local wines, gourmet food items, artwork by local artists, and unique gift items.  Cornell’s motto is “Drink Local Wine” and they want that to become a reality for those who visit. They believe that the emerging wine community in the Santa Monica Mountains is truly unique, not only because of the incredible terroir “geology” but the philosophies and personalities behind the multitude of growers and winemakers. The tasting line up features 4 wines for a cost of $10 plus tax and changes often. On this day we tasted a Montage Chardonnay from Russian River Valley, a Gagnon Cabernet Sauvignon from Santa Clara, Malibu vineyard Caro’s Ridge Malbec, and Vina Robles Red4 (a Syrah blend)  from Paso Robles.

After we made our purchases we decided to get back on Mulholland Drive and visit the Paramount Ranch film set and Malibou Lake at Marco’s recommendation, then hit the Malibu Country Mart before going to Nobu. Malibou Lake (to the south) used to be the playground of the wealthy elite of Los Angeles during Hollywood’s golden era in the 30s and 40s.  Major movie companies like Paramount kept studios in the mountains where shows like M*A*S*H and Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman were filmed.  The sets still stand today and are a popular attraction for locals and tourists alike.

You can live here for decades and still never see everything there is to see in the Los Angles area – my friends and I were in awe of the beauty surrounding us and the fact that we had never visited Paramount Ranch!  The hills are also a great place for hiking and biking with a vast network of trails weaving through the mountains – but, even though I’d worn my best cowgirl boots for the occasion, we really weren’t dressed for hiking, maybe next time…

We languished for awhile, soaking up the view, then it was off to the Malibu Country Mart, which we discovered  closed at 4:00. Never phased by a change in plans, it wasn’t tough to decide on maximizing our time by arriving early at Nobu and take advantage of their expansive ocean views, Japanese garden and artful Asian-inspired minimalist architecture as a stunning backdrop for more photo ops.

Nobu Malibu is known for exquisite cuisine featuring Nobu Matsuhisa’s signature dishes such as Tiradito, Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeno, and Black Cod with Miso.  As well as some Malibu favorites created by Executive Chef Gregorio Stephenson including Ribeye with Truffle Butter Sauce and Crispy Maui Onions, Heirloom Tomato and Snapper New Style, and Kobe Beef with Crispy Shiitake Mushrooms. At such a highly acclaimed sushi restaurant why would you order anything else? We shared a selection of their signature dishes:

Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeno and Spicy Seafood Soup

Rock Shrimp Tempura with Creamy Spicy Sauce and Albacore Vegas Salsa with Avocado

 Black Cod with Miso and, for dessert, Bento Box Warm Chocolate Souffle Cake

 

 All the seafood dishes were exquisite – the highest quality fish that money can buy and palate pleasing Asian flavors with a Peruvian twist evident especially in the ceviches and salsas. We erred in ordering a non-seafood dish to further experience the Peruvian side of Nobu – the ”Anti-Cucho” Peruvian Style Spicy Chicken Skewers, which at 2 pieces for $10 was disappointing since one skewer was overcooked and dry. Other than that, the meal and ambience was a sublime end to a perfect day and the sleek Acura ILX handled the rain-slick freeways in fine form, bringing me safely to the nest.

 

Disclosure:  I received the keys to an Acura ILX to test drive for a week and was compensated for my time. The day tripping adventure, choice of restaurants, and opinions expressed here are my own.

 

But wait! Acura, would like to know what you would do if you were given a week with an ILX. Please leave a comment below describing your adventure for a chance to receive an Acura ILX for a week or win a giftcard for $100 or $50.  

And here’s the trip in 4 minutes
 

© Priscilla for She's Cookin' | from the heart, 2012. | Permalink | 13 comments | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Acura ILX, Cornell Winery, Malibu, Nobu, The Old Place

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How to Become a Bourbon Lover in One Night? Simple: attend a bourbon dinner where each course is perfectly executed to entertain your palate with subtle nuances of bourbon and is expertly paired with tastes of premium, aged Pappy Van Winkle, the world’s most elusive bourbon.

Foie Gras Apple Bread Pudding | Bourbon dulce de leche, Marcona almond, Horchata ice cream

pairing: Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve 23-year old

With bourbon enjoying a decade long revival, I’ve seen more and more drink menus with intriguing handcrafted bourbon cocktails that have swayed me away from the martini list and ignited a yearning to know more about this truly American spirit. I’ve dreamed of taking a trip to the Bourbon Trail in Kentucky for several years and, finally, the stars were aligned with my calendar and I was able to join my online friend Gwen of Bunky Cooks and On The Road culinary adventures for their second Bourbon Country tour to Louisville, Kentucky.

Sure I’ve drank bourbon, but I didn’t really KNOW bourbon. First of all, I learned that bourbon is a whiskey, but all whiskeys are not bourbons – picture a Venn Diagram. For a whiskey to qualify as bourbon, the law–by international agreement–stipulates that it must be made in the USA from at least 51% corn; is distilled at no more than 80% alcohol; is matured at no higher than 62.5% alcohol; and is matured in new charred oak barrels for no less than two years. (Source: Kentucky Bourbon Cocktail Book by Joy Perrine and Susan Reigler.) My whiskey education centered around college and early post-college shenanigans with Jack Daniels, Jim Beam and some Wild Turkey thrown in because I liked the name… but those days are nothing but a hazy memory from another lifetime … and this is most definitely not that kind of whiskey.

The two-day itinerary was a food and spirit lovers dream: beginning with 2 nights at the historic Brown Hotel in downtown Louisville, home of the Kentucky Derby and gateway to the Bourbon Trail; dinner  with bourbon pairings at award-winning Chef Anthony Lamas‘ restaurant, Seviche with guest of honor Julian Van Winkle and son Preston whose family distillery Old Rip Van Winkle produces premium aged bourbon. Julian launched the Pappy Van Winkle line in the mid 1990′s and started selling aged bourbons because he preferred them over younger whiskies.

Nuevo Latino Shrimp & Grits | Ponce Inlet shrimp, Weisenberger grits, Manchego, Chorizo, Bourbon Red Eye gravy

pairing: Van Winkle Special Reserve 12-year

In 1998 his 20-year-old won a “99″ rating, the highest ever from the prestigious Beverage Tasting Institute in Chicago. The judges said it “finishes with a seemingly endless and evolving cascade that introduces notes of cigar box, sweet tobacco, leather, and dried tangerine.” After that, Van Winkle says, “the phone started ringing off the hook and we were short — didn’t have nearly enough of it. (Source: CNN Money) Since then, the elusive Pappy Van Winkle has gathered many more awards and ratings anointing them among the best whiskies in the world resulting in a fervent cult following and garnering Julian the James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional of the Year.

Julian P. Van Winkle III

Chef Anthony Lamas’ signature nuevo Latin cuisine held up to the bold bourbon pairings and showcased his focus on sustainable seafood, seasonal local ingredients, and the exciting Latin influence with a dash of southern flair that Seviche, a Latin Restuarant, consistently ranked as one of Louisville’s top establishments, is known for.  Chef Lamas artfully incorporated bourbon into each course which we savored along with one of Pappy Van Winkle bourbons spanning the years: Old Rip Van Winkle 10-year, Van Winkle Special Reserve 12-year, Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve 15-year, 20-year, and 23 -year.

Maple Leaf Farms Duck | Carolina Gold Rice, Sea Island Red peas, duck cracklins, black Mission fig bourbon demi glace

pairing: Van Winkle Special Reserve 15-year

 Our group was captivated as Julian spoke of the legacy of his grandfather Pappy Van Winkle and why his special recipe, which substitutes wheat for traditional rye, and the aging process distinguishes them from other bourbon makers and how their strategy of scarcity, with a little luck and an unwavering commitment to quality and limited quantities, has served their family through the years. Pappy’s mantra, ”we make a fine bourbon, at a profit if we can, at a loss if we must, but always a fine bourbon“, endures.

Most bourbons use 70% to 80% corn and a mixture of rye, malted barley, and yeast. Naturally, the Pappy Van Winkle mash mix is a closely guarded secret and one that they mean to keep in the family. The Van Winkle recipe ages gracefully in oak barrels and  doesn’t pick up as much of the oak and char flavors as rye. Wheat also imparts a sweeter, softer, smoother whiskey than rye, which tends to be spicier and have a bite. Why is aged bourbon so darn expensive and hard to find? It’s the mathematics involved in the careful distillation process and the aging in oak barrels for years – in the case of the 23-year, nearly a quarter of a century. A new barrel yields 30 cases of bourbon, but each year of aging yields less as product is lost “to the barrel” (evaporation). After 23 years a barrel yields only 7 cases.

In addition to the three courses pictured above, our bourbon repast began with a refreshing Tuna “Old Fashioned” ceviche starter accompanied by Old Rip Van Winkle 10-year and ended with Ashbourne Farms Pork Belly with local greens, Benton’s bacon, maple, and Bourbon Barrel Foods sorghum paired with Pappy Van Winkle Special Reserve 20-year before the grand finale: the beautifully-plated and stunning sweet and savory dessert of Foie Gras with Bourbon Dulce de Leche and Apple Bread Pudding paired with Pappy Van Winkle Special Reserve 23-year to complete a decadent, but delightfully unpretentious evening, with two of Kentucky’s most respected gentlemen.

© Priscilla for She's Cookin' | from the heart, 2012. | Permalink | 14 comments | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: bourbon, Louisville, Pappy Van Winkle

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A week in Hong Kong is not long enough to fully experience all that this island metropolis holds within its heart, but long enough to realize the contrasts in the old and new and marvel at how they co-exist in the 21st century. Indeed a city of contrasts, the idea that they exist in perfect harmony is somewhat romanticized, my conversations with long-time Hong Kong residents and reading local newspapers revealed an undercurrent of tension directly related to the influx of mainland Chinese people and its effect on their economy as well as strident disapproval of corrupt politicians and the status quo. How all that plays out will be interesting to follow (Chinese news and social media platforms are heavily censored), but I like to keep it light here and share that which caught my eye as I navigated crowded subways and ferries and zig-zagged along busy avenues absorbing, admiring, and learning.

Crossing Victoria Harbour from Tsim Sha Tsui on one of the Star Ferry boats which have taken passengers from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island and witnessed a century of changes in  Hong Kong,  then boarding a high-speed ferry it to visit the majestic Giant Buddha sitting serenely amidst the spectacular mountain scenery of Lantau island. Unveiled in December of 1993, the Giant Buddha attracts tourists from all over Asia – the 40-minute bus ride up the winding road was filled with tourists – many from the nearby Philippine islands.

Rushing back to change for dinner – not just any dinner, mind you; our guests that evening were highly esteemed clients from Shanghai and desiring to make an unforgettable impression, I made reservations and prior arrangements with Executive Chef Peter Kind at the elegant Tosca at Ritz Carlton Hong Kong. Occupying the 102 – 118 floors in the glistening new ICC Building, the fourth tallest building in the world, the Ritz Carlton Hong Kong is the highest hotel in the world.

Along with visiting a Chinese herbalist, trying pigeon was at the top of my must-do list. For the Chinese, pigeon is a prized food served at banquets and family celebrations, particularly pigeons from Chungshan, and is found on the menus of better restaurants. With pigeon on the menu at Tosca, there was no question about my selection for the first course, I also knew it was a good choice when each of our guests ordered the pigeon, too The small and tender bird was artfully presented with foie gras and cannelini beans in a pool of balsamic reduction and cubes of bright Campari gelee. Only the stratospheric view of the glittering city eclipsed the culinary talents of Chef de Cuisine Vittorio Lucariello that evening.

At the other end of the dining spectrum is the array of street food which can be found all hours of the day and night, especially in the many markets of Mongkok or Temple Street: curry fish balls, grilled octopus, deep fried beef intestines, siu mai/shiu mai, fried tofu, noodles, and seafood (Temple Street).

 Temple Street Night Market

Locals eat at small street cafes, each with their own specialty

Pidan – also known as preserved egg, hundred year egg, and thousand year egg

Michelin-star restaurants, cuisines that span the world, and the array of street food is only one of the many contrasts you’ll find in Hong Kong. Skyscrapers towering over centuries-old markets, the ideals of Confucianism coexist with capitalism and blatant profiteering, Tai chi at dawn and tranquil tea ceremonies in a city with a thriving film industry and 5-star resorts alongside ancient temples, flower markets, and bird gardens.

Man Mo Temple

Thanks for joining me on my second photo essay of Hong Kong.  Have a great week!

© Priscilla for She's Cookin' | from the heart, 2012. | Permalink | 23 comments | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Hong Kong, Hong Kong street food, Ritz Carlton Hong Kong

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I’ve been MIA for a couple of days because of some major happenings on the home front. Yesterday, after going back and forth a few times, we accepted a buyer’s offer and sold our home of 15 years – making our move to the beach a done deal. A huge inner sigh of relief was followed by a surge of mixed feelings – joy for the new lifestyle awaiting us, sadness at leaving the only home that our College Girl and two fur kids have known, and dread at the thought of weeding through, discarding, and packing our lives up into brown boxes.

But it’s all good! Just need some time to process With everything going on, I haven’t had the chance to share my adventures in Hong Kong, except for a rundown of my Asian breakfast exploration, until today.

Without a doubt, the most culturally authentic experience I had was visiting a Chinese herbalist. Hong Kong, with direct access to mainland China’s vast herbal cornucopia, has the most flourishing herbal medicine trade in the Far East. As soon as I caught a glimpse of the rows of orange labeled jars filled with mysterious dried shapes, I gestured to my guide and entered without a moment of hesitation. I watched as his wife gathered herbs to fill a prescription and he studied the pulse of an elderly gentleman. Seeing Chinese medicine practiced was something I knew I wanted to do, and without Jeannie, my guide for the afternoon, I wouldn’t have been able to communicate with the herbalist.  Unless you speak or write Chinese, you should always visit Chinese herbal emporiums with someone who knows the language.

For 80 HKD, he analyzed my “chi” through careful measurement of my pulse and accurately described my ailments. With Jeannie translating, I listened intently as he provided some general medical advice, then proceeded with my herbal prescription by writing characters on a track pad which were converted to an herbal prescription. He printed it out for me and asked if I wanted to have the tonic that day. For 40 more HKD he would prepare the tonic – just give him 2 hours.

We left and continued to the SoHo area – here that stands for “South of Hollywood Road” – a happening place with a wide range of international restaurants and bars accessible by the Mid-Levels Escalator – the world’s longest covered escalator.

Colorful stalls of Li Yuen Street East and West Market

Wandering through the wet market where vendors sell their live seafood and fresh meat in the open air as they have done for hundreds of years.

Taking respite in a tranquil tea store.

Marveling at the displays of animal, plant, marine, and mineral displays at another herbalist with a more modern storefront.

After a pit stop at a hip coffee and cheese cafe called Classified, it was time to head back to imbibe in my personalized herbal remedy. Just as before, it was me and the ancient Chinese man. And again, I took my cues from him to see how you were supposed to drink the bowl of steaming murky brown liquid.

In the West, Chinese herbalists can often be found practicing their ancient arts in the Chinatowns of major cities – I should be able to “fill” my prescription in Little Saigon when I choose to brave the bitter tonic again. Someone asked me if I’d seen the episode where Andrew Zimmern (of Travel Channel’s Bizarre Foods fame) sampled a Chinese tonic and discarded it after a few sips (I haven’t) … proud to say I finished mine!

How do radishes tie in? Actually, they are a loose reference to both the sale of our house and Chinese medicine.

Turns out that radishes were first cultivated thousands of years ago in China, then in Egypt and Greece. In fact, radishes were so highly regarded in Greece that gold replicas were made – hmm, there has to be an interesting story there. The radish did not make its way to England until approximately 1548 and by 1629 they were being cultivated in Massachusetts. (source: CDC: fruits & veggies matter) Radishes are also known for the detoxifying and anti-carcinogenic properties.

Hubs planted two varieties of radishes this year: per my request, French breakfast radishes – an heirloom variety, crisp and mildly pungent when young and Fire ‘N Ice – hailed as a Burpee Exclusive, a brightly colored beauty 3-4″ with an extra-crisp texture and a mild, delicately sweet flavor and a little bite on the finish. Like many Americans, I really only thought of radishes as a colorful addition to a green salad,  until last year when I came across several simple radish salads accompanied by ravishing photographs.

As for the sale of our house…we will sorely miss our garden, but I’ll be able to walk to the downtown Huntington Beach farmers market and we felt a connection to the young couple who are expecting their first child and liked our home for all the same reasons that we did fifteen years ago. Just like Don, the husband was from upstate New York and desired a sanctuary among the masses and they sincerely appreciated what we’ve done over the years to the interior and landscaping and plan to maintain the garden to nurture their family – and we are happy to pass it on to them. *sniffle*

With this salad, I have a chance to show my dragons – anyone else love the Mother of Dragons on Game of Thrones? – as well as highlight the under-appreciated radish and organic Jade Pearl Rice from Lotus Foods:

“One of our most exemplary rices, both for its nutritional and flavor profile, we infuse our California grown organic pearled rice with wildcrafted BamBoom!™ extract, made from the Moso species of bamboo that grows in the virgin highland forest of south central China.

The oldest living peoples of the world eat a staple of rice mixed with a unique, edible species of Bamboo leaf and stem for its good nutritional profile. They consider this warm mountain-grown bamboo the true tree of life.

When cooked, this beautiful jade-colored rice produces the aroma of a bamboo forest, a light vanilla taste, and an explosion of health-giving nutrients.”

Very simple, just mix together 2 tablespoons each of sesame oil, rice vinegar, and mirin and a half teaspoon of black sesame seeds, shake in a jar or whisk until emulsified, mix half into a cup of cooked Jade Pearl Rice and toss radishes with the remainder. Sprinkle rice with Eden Organic Black & Tan Gomasio (black and tan sesame seeds & sea salt), if desired. Most Asian style vinaigrettes include soy sauce, but if you’re watching your sodium intake – soy sauce, even the low-sodium variety, is out.

Dragon!

Hope you enjoyed this brief sojourn with me Enjoy your weekend!

© Priscilla for She's Cookin' | from the heart, 2012. | Permalink | 28 comments | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Hong Kong, radish salad

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My first trip to Hong Kong and I was more focused on seeing the sights than trying to navigate public transportation to dining destinations or deciding among the infinite array of Michelin-starred, dim sum, traditional Cantonese, and storied choices. Of course, a girl’s got to eat and I savored as much of the local cuisine, fine dining, and street food that one person can but, while I was out exploring the city, choices in dining were largely based on the need for a bathroom break – western style…

Being an adventurous diner, I decided on the first day to have a hearty Asian style breakfast that would hold me over to dinner – with maybe a pork bao (bun), tea sandwich, or street snack here and there to supplement There were western style breakfasts of omelettes, eggs benedict, waffles, pancakes, granola, etc. available, but I can get those anytime! I was intrigued with the breakfast trays: Chinese, Thai, Japanese, and Healthy Special, and tried a different one each morning, beginning with the Chinese breakfast of congee, dim sum, rice roll, and condiments above. More savory than we are accustomed to, but as a savory lover and eater of leftovers for breakfast, this was right up my alley.

Congee is a type of rice porridge popular in Asia; comforting and satisfying, like oatmeal, it’s a great way to energize for the day and, similar to chicken soup, provides soothing relief when you’re not feeling well. Sprinkled with peanuts, green onions, and fresh ginger – I loved it!

Thai omelette of ground pork + shrimp | rice, sliced papaya and soy sauce with Thai pepper

The Thai omelette was light & healthy with fresh cucumbers, cherry tomatoes and papaya – loved that the omelette wasn’t dripping with cheese or sauce like we do it here. Very possibly, my favorite of the week, clinched with sweet, slices of papaya!

The best restaurants in Asia are found in hotels and from what my eastern friends have  told me, this has always been the case. Unlike the U.S. where hotel restaurants were often considered sub-par and unglamorous, but with more high profile chefs – culinary icons and celebrity chefs – choosing to have their restaurants in landmark hotels, this is becoming true in the U.S., too. Our home for a week was the Sheraton, Hong Kong; the premium restaurants, attentive service, elegant decor with subtle Asian motifs, stunning views of Victoria Harbor, and central location in Tsim Sha Tsui confirms a return visit. Next time I’ll make it across the street to Nobu in the Intercontinental.

Japanese breakfast  | grilled salmon, miso soup, rice, tamagoyaki, tsukemono, umeboshi

This is the breakfast of my ancestors, although I grew up eating Cream of Wheat (blah) and Quaker Oats oatmeal because, in a household of four kids, it’s fast, nutritious, and inexpensive. Tamagoyaki is slightly sweet Japanese rolled omelet also called tamago or dashimaki, tsukemono are Japanese pickles (not limited to cucumbers), and umeboshi is pickled ume plums.

Going down the menu, my last Asian-inspired breakfast was called Healthy Selection of crispy baked tofu, rye toast, and fresh fruit. The crisped tofu crusted with an assortment of sesame and other seeds and topped with a chunky tomato sauce was excellent! I’m going to copy this is my kitchen for a meatless dinner soon. Each Asian breakfast was high in protein, but low in saturated fat for a heart healthy meal with staying power.

Hong Kong is a truly fascinating country with a long and rich history; in fact, until 1997 it still belonged to the United Kingdom, as part of a 100 year lease. The city has since been operating under a mixed law system that blends British and Chinese ideas into one; it is this combination that gives Hong Kong such a diverse atmosphere that appeals to most visitors of this tiny south coast metropolis packed with 7 million people. The vibrant modern city is made up of two parts; the uptown central business area of “Hong Kong Island” with its 5 star hotels and upscale European restaurants, and the more authentically Chinese “Kowloon Side” that connects to the mainland offering a dizzying array of cultural experiences and the well-known, busy markets of Hong Kong.

Hong Kong’s British influence is why Westerners may find it to be a more comfortable transition to the East than other cities in Asia – it’s so civilized, with most hotels offering tea service in the late afternoon. One of the must-do’s on my list was tea at The Peninsula Hotel, an important landmark in Hong Kong history. I’ll be sharing tea at The Peninsula and other Travel Eats and adventures in Hong Kong in my next post. Hope you have a fabulous week!

© Priscilla for She's Cookin' | from the heart, 2012. | Permalink | 19 comments | Add to del.icio.us
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The gift of Banh Chung during the New Year has become the most important tradition of Vietnamese culture and was passed down from one generation to the next. Always curious about the foods that play such an important role in cultural traditions, I attended a cooking demonstration by Chef Haley Nguyen of Xanh Bistro in Fountain Valley, CA and learned about the legend behind Banh Chung, how the rice cakes are made, and how it became a symbol of Tet.

A traditional food gift for the Lunar New Year, Chef Haley Nguyen demonstrated the fine art of wrapping the square cakes of rice, mung bean and pork in banana leaves and then boiling them. In front of a small, but avid group of Vietnamese food and culture lovers, she shared a bit of the legend behind banh chung: rice is the staff of life for the people and the banana leaves signify the love of parents who would always protect their children; and the difference between square and round shapes (square cakes represent life on earth and is the tradition in northern Vietnam and the round shape stands for heaven above and is from the south).

Preparations for Chinese New Year (also known as Lunar New Year, Tet Festival, and Spring Festival) and welcoming the Year of the Dragon on January 23rd, have been underway for weeks in Asian households around the world. Although the Lunar New Year is observed in all of East Asia influenced by Chinese civilization, each country celebrates it in a way unique to that country. For the Vietnamese and Chinese people, 2012 is the Year of the Dragon (it doesn’t always coincide with the Chinese animal). Being born in the Year of the Dragon is considered most desirable, especially for boys, as the Dragon has been the  symbol of royalty for thousands of years and is believed to bring luck, strength, royalty, wisdom, and a promising future.

New years banner greets shoppers at the fruit market.

Each year when celebrations for the Lunar New Year begin, I’m reminded of the cultural tour I took with my friend Monique to learn about the many symbols and customs associated with Tet and this most important of all Asian holidays. We met at the ABC Supermarket shopping center at Bolsa and Brookhurst in what’s known as Little Saigon in Westminster.

Only 10:30 a.m. and traffic was backed up on Brookhurst and the parking lot was swarming with erratic drivers looking for a spot. I parked way in the back.

The marketplace is humming with activity.

Flowers are an important part of decorating a home for Chinese New Year. Plum blossom and water narcissus are the two flowers most associated with the New Year.

A vendor shows us her plum blossoms.

Water narcissus

In the midst of the crush of shoppers and staccato sounds of a foreign language, were two monks walking, eyes cast downward, moving silently amongst the crowd carrying a bamboo container tucked under their robes, discreetly revealed only when a passer-by offers a few dollars.

show deep respect

Tangerines, oranges and pomelos are frequently displayed in homes and stores. Tangerines are symbolic of good luck and oranges are symbolic of wealth. The first store we entered had a tangerine tree decorated with lai-see envelopes (also called hong-bao). Money is placed inside the red envelopes and given to children and young adults as gifts.

kumquat tree decorated with red envelopes

Traditional gifts given to families are rice cakes called banh chung made from white rice, marinated strips of pork and yellow mung beans. I had wanted to photograph Monique making a traditional New Years food but she said that everyone buys these in stores now because they are too labor intensive to make at home. I read a very touching article by Ky-Phong Tran in the Orange County Register recalling memories of his grandfather making the rice cakes every New Year – the only thing he ever made – and how this tradition was his father’s way of reaching back 35 years and 8,000 miles to his childhood in the homeland.

Banh chung is a traditional gift

Piled high were colorful containers of candies and nuts that are given as gifts also.

Colorful candies and sweets for gifts

From here we went to the fruit market where Monique identified the exotic fruits for me and described their taste and how they’re eaten. There was dragon fruit, an exotic lemon that looks like it has “fingers”, gigantic jack fruit whose seeds are boiled and taste like chestnuts, prickly durian that’s called “stinky fruit” and has a custardy filling. I bought a package of mangostine which are cracked open and has white fruit segments similar to an orange.

exotic fruit and traditional Vietnamese desserts

Monique purchased some traditional Vietnamese desserts, made from rice and similar to what we know as tapioca or rice pudding, and bought plum blossoms for her home from a familiar vendor with a better price than the ones we priced earlier.

Monique with her plum blossoms

More commotion erupted when the police and zoning people arrived and vendors were told that they couldn’t be spilling over into the fire lane and some were sent packing because they had no sellers license.

Eastern spirituality meets Western reality

The week ahead brings the parades and pageantry of Tet Festival followed by 10 days of celebrating the Year of the Dragon with family and friends.

Chuc Mung Nam Moi!

© Priscilla for She's Cookin' | from the heart, 2012. | Permalink | 8 comments | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: banh chung, Chinese New Year, Lunar New Year, Tet Festival

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