The Innovative Wines of Italy’s Südtirol Alto Adige Region

There are no bad days in Italy, and when you are on a wine and culinary exploration that includes a visit to the breathtakingly beautiful alpine regions of Northern Italy to discover the wines of Südtirol-Alto Adige, it is nothing short of unforgettable!

We arrived at Cantina Kaltern where we met Daniel Nogler, our charismatic guide for the afternoon. Daniel swiftly collected a rack of glasses and a few bottles of Kaltern Brut Nature and we piled into the van for a quick drive-by view of picturesque hillside vineyards before disembarking at a spectacular vantage point high above Lake Kaltern. Catina Kaltern is a cooperative of 700 wineries that cultivate over 400 hectare of vineyards.The co-op is a landmark for the wines produced in the Lake Kaltern area and the wine under the famous appellation of “Kalterersee”.

Trentino-Alto Adige is the northernmost Italian wine region, comprising two areas with very different personalities: the Germanic Alto Adige or Südtirol, which borders and once belonged to Austria and, below it, the more Italian, but still very Alpine, Trentino. The region’s capital and largest city is Trento, followed closely by the Südtirol provincial capital, Bozen (Bolzano). The breathtaking valley of the Adige River is renowned in the wine world for varietally labeled cool-climate wines, mainly white. In 2016, Trentino–Alto Adige produced 1.1 million hectoliters (12.7 million cases) of wine, more than 70% of it white and almost 90% at the DOP level, the highest percentage of any region. The region’s primary grape varieties are Chardonnay (22%), Pinot Grigio (19%), and Schiava (9%). {Source: Italian Wine Central}

In English, made so much more charming with a lilting Austrian German accent, Daniel Nogler shared the history and nature of the wines of Südtirol-Alto Adige. Time lost all significance as we sipped and savored sublime sandwiches of impossibly delicious, fresh made Italian bread stuffed with Truffle Mortadella that our host Chef Mark McDonald had scored in Desenzano del Garda where we were staying for our first four nights.

The bright acidity of Kaltern Brut Nature sparkling wine is a perfect pairing for the cured meats and cheeses that Northern Italy is renowned for. The varietal: Chardonnay; the method: called Metodo Classico is the same method as méthode champenoise in Champagne and is considered to be the highest quality technique. Wines made in this manner resemble traditional Champagne or Cava, and many are the same quality as French champagnes, with a lower price point.

The tasting notes are from Kaltern’s website and I love the accompanying recommendation:

“I drink […] when I‘m happy and when I‘m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I‘m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I‘m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it, unless I‘m thirsty.” (Lily Bollinger)

Lake Kaltern is the heart of the Alto Adige winegowing region. Gently rolling vineyards and splendid wineries are typical of Lake Kaltern, which attracts countless wine lovers from around the world. Merlot and Cabernet are grown in the valley areas and Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir at the higher elevations along with the traditional Schiava (Vernatsch). The multitude of varieties are proof of the spirit of the times and the innovative ideas and quality management of the winegrowers. {Source: Alto Adige wines}

With picturesque photo ops at every turn, we meandered back to the van to continue our wine education with a visit to Erste + Neue’s impressive cave and taste more fabulous wines of Alto Adige.

Vibrant depictions of Italian gods and goddesses adorn the walls of the barrel room.

The Erste+Neue winery has been part of the history of the Kaltern wine trade for over 100 years. The 1986 merger of the Erste (“first”) wine co-operative (founded in 1900) with the Neue (“new”) wine co-operative (founded in 1925) produced a South Tyrolean winery that is rich in both tradition and renown. Always forward-thinking, Erste + Neue affiliated with Cantina Kaltern in 2016 and the decision was made to retain the brand in view of its prominence and tradition in the world of wine.