Of the five days I was on Bocas it rained every day – most days it rained intermittently but, on two of the days, it poured which made paddleboarding on the open ocean undesirable and dangerous for beginners such as myself and taking the water taxi to Bocas town or other islands a sodden and choppy experience. I heard that the day of arrival was what you would expect in Bocas\u2014sunny, 80\u00b0F swimsuit weather\u2014but I missed that day thanks to United Airlines. It cleared up on the last full day of the tour but by then I had voted myself off the island for some solitude, a good night’s sleep, and a hot shower in Panama City.<\/p>\n
Seeing water bailed from your water taxi is cause for pause \u00a9Priscilla Willis<\/p><\/div>\n
Getting to Bocas del Toro<\/h3>\n
Flights to Panama<\/strong> arrive at Tocumen International Airport in Panama City. Besides Panama City, Bocas del Toro<\/strong> is the most recognizable of all Panamanian tourist destinations. To get to Bocas you will have to fly on Air Panama<\/strong> to the tiny Bocas airport. Air Panama is a regional airline based at Albrook “Marcos A. Gelabert” International Airport in Panama which, allowing for traffic,\u00a0 is about 45 minutes by taxi from Tocumen.<\/p>\nAir Panama at Allbrook airport. \u00a9Priscilla Willis<\/p><\/div>\n
The tour company repeatedly advised us to pack light because the small prop plane that flies to Bocas limits passengers to 20 kilos (44 pounds). This may be difficult for some people but the airline is serious about this weight limitation and when you see the plane you will know why. Realistically, it’s easy to pack light<\/strong> for a trip to Panama as all you really need is swimwear, a sundress or two, casual attire for trips to town, water shoes\/sandals, and flip flops. In fact, your toiletries, which should include sunscreen, reef-safe sunscreen, and bug repellent, will weigh more than your clothing. I also packed Immodium AD, just in case. My bags, a square carry-on and a Patagonia backpack, weighed 12 kilos – the lightest I have ever packed for a trip!<\/p>\nPack light for Bocas: small carryon and a backpack.<\/p><\/div>\n
Below are the baggage requirements that were printed on my ticket. Prices are in Panamanian balboa dollars. The balboa has always been tied to the U.S. dollar\u2014one dollar equals one balboa. Since Panama does not print its own paper currency, it uses the U.S. dollar as legal tender but you will receive change in Panamanian coins which come in 1, 5, 10, 25, and 50-cent pieces.<\/p>\n
IN THE CASES OF THE “E” FARE OF THE FLIGHTS OF PANAMA-SAN JOS\u00c9 OR VICE VERSA IS NOT ALLOWED TO CARRY LUGGAGE.
\nIF THE CUSTOMER WANTS TO CARRY AND REGISTER LUGGAGE, HE SHOULD FOLLOW THE FOLLOWING SCALE:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- 1 PIECE BETWEEN 0 AND 20 KILOS WILL PAY B \/. 40.00<\/li>\n
- 1 OR 2 PIECES BETWEEN 0 AND 40 KILOS WILL PAY B \/. 69.00 IN BETWEEN<\/li>\n
- 1 OR 3 PIECES BETWEEN 0 AND 60 KILOS WILL PAY B \/. 149.00 BETWEEN THE THREE<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Colorful studio cottages on the water in Bocas \u00a9Priscilla Willis<\/p><\/div>\n
Don’t Expect 5 Star Accommodations<\/h3>\n
Bocas is a tropical beach destination but it IS NOT a secluded 5-star Caribbean paradise. You can’t come here expecting the amenities of a luxury resort or the same level of comfort you can find in Mexico, Costa Rica, Dominican Republic or Jamaica. Our group numbered 13: 11 guests plus our group leader and a yoga instructor who left after the second day. I’m telling you it was like being on Survivor! We stayed in a large island house, well known for its prominent location on Camino de Carenero on Carenero Isla, a short water taxi ride from Bocas town.<\/p>\n
Large island house on Camino de Carenero, Carenero Isla, Bocas del Toro \u00a9Priscilla Willis<\/p><\/div>\n
While the house is impressive by island standards, it is a typical wood-frame island home with no soundproofing and a cistern (two in this case) providing water for toilets, bathing, and cooking. You DO NOT DRINK this water. Upon arrival, we were instructed on limiting showers as the cisterns were close to running out of water due to months of drought, and the separate disposal of used toilet paper. Locals were seriously concerned about running out of water and, fortunately, they were blessed with relief from the drought by the rains that came while we were there.<\/p>\n
With two opposing masters and three bedrooms upstairs and sturdy, yet spare, furnishings the house works well for families and groups. Traveling as a single, I was assigned the small room above the kitchen and was sharing a bathroom with the tour leader and yoga instructor who were bunking in the loft area above the great room. I’m a light sleeper anyway and was awakened by every creak of the bathroom door, evening card games, and early risers in the morning.<\/p>\n
Isle de Carenero dock\u00a0 \u00a9Priscilla Willis<\/p><\/div>\n
Good Times in Bocas del Toro<\/h2>\n
Thank goodness my longtime girlfriend, who suggested I go on this trip, and her husband were with me on this island adventure. We made the best of a bad situation with endless belly laughs, ongoing jokes, taking the water taxi to Bocas town to shop, eat and explore, drinking lots of rum and the best Pi\u00f1a Coladas ever at nearby Bibi’s on the beach \u2014basically saving each other from a disappointing vacation. Your time on the islands is spent outside and all is well with the world basking in the sun with toes in the sand, reading on the deck, lounging in a hammock, or appreciating the expansive view of the azure waters of the Caribbean becoming one with the sky. When it’s not raining!<\/p>\n
The Best Pi\u00f1a Coladas Ever!<\/h3>\nBibi’s Pi\u00f1a Coladas to save the day \u00a9Priscilla Willis<\/p><\/div>\n
Another great thing about the house where we were staying on Isla de Carenero\u2014Bibi’s on the Beach was just steps away. They served an excellent ceviche and their Pi\u00f1a Coladas, made with fresh coconut and pineapple juice, were the best I’ve ever imbibed!<\/p>\n
Where to Eat in Bocas del Toro<\/h3>\nBibi’s on Isla de Carenero \u00a9Priscilla Willis<\/p><\/div>\n
Fresh ceviche with fried plantains at Bibi’s \u00a9Priscilla Willis<\/p><\/div>\n
Also on Isle de Carenero is Leaf Eaters<\/strong> on the water. A family-owned and operated restaurant that serves smoothies, sandwiches, fresh salads, and vegetarian dishes. Don’t walk past their narrow dock with a palm-thatched roof shading a bench-for-two\u2014 it’s the perfect, romantic Instagrammable photo op (see opening photo).<\/p>\nDining on the water at Leaf Eaters \u00a9Priscilla Willis<\/p><\/div>\n
Family-owned Leaf Eaters restaurant \u00a9Priscilla Willis<\/p><\/div>\n
Bocas Town<\/strong> has an abundance of small independent eateries serving typical Panamanian food, legit tacos (go see George at Casa Surf<\/strong>!), or American fare. There are several grocery stores where you can buy food and alcohol as well as pharmacias<\/em> where you can purchase toiletries and over the counter medications. If shopping is your thang there are plenty of surf and swimwear stores, boho boutiques, and tourist souvenir shops.<\/p>\nStreet vendor serving Panamian fried fish in Bocas Town \u00a9Priscilla Willis<\/p><\/div>\n
Appreciate the Locals<\/h3>\n
For many travelers, visiting a developing country is an eye-opener. The way people live can be shocking to those of us who enjoy the many comforts of our civilized world. As you walk along the pot-holed streets and dirt paths scattered with debris take a moment to count your blessings and, perhaps, pack some inexpensive toys, trinkets, games, etc. to make an innocent child’s day.<\/p>\n
Panamanian girl living near the Bat Cave \u00a9Priscilla Willis<\/p><\/div>\n
I’ve always loved boys \ud83d\ude09 Children of the caretaker \u00a9Priscilla Willis<\/p><\/div>\n