For Fat Tuesday, February 9th this year, I’m sharing a lot of “let the good times roll” and a “healthified” vegetarian version of New Orleans’ grand dame Leah “Dooky” Chase’s Red Beans and Rice recipe.
Hopefully, Dooky won’t mind that I had to forego the smoked meats that impart such a complex flavor to the traditional dish – not because I don’t like ham bone or smoked meat, I absolutely love these Southern staples, but hubs can’t enjoy cured meats due to his physician-mandated low sodium diet. Giving up sausage, bacon, ham, and deli meats was very hard for him in the beginning, but he’s adapted and occasionally enjoys homemade meatballs on his pizza.
This beloved Creole staple is said to have originated with African-American cooks on Louisiana plantations. After soaking the beans on Saturday night, Sunday supper’s ham bone was reserved for the beans. Monday was “wash day” in New Orleans, and became the traditional day for eating red beans because they could be left to simmer all day with little attention while doing the wash and other chores.
Today, “red and white” is a New Orleans favorite that you will find everywhere, from home kitchens to fine restaurants, including Dooky Chase’s, whose version is widely adapted. Most versions keep with tradition and contain smoked or pickled meat and sausage, ham bone or ham hocks. In The Dooky Chase Cookbook, chef Leah Chase explains that pickling meat is something that New Orleans Creoles did, so it’s more of a city touch, while smoked meat is something that country folks used.
To achieve the smoky complex flavor of the beans without meat, I used fermented black garlic which possesses an amazing umami and imparts another layer of flavor. I utilize it in my low sodium cooking instead of soy sauce or salt – it adds a depth of flavor to everything from spaghetti sauce to hearty soups and stews. A few drops of liquid smoke lends a smokiness that smoked sausage or meat would add. Red beans should not be soupy, but rather what locals call “creamy” from the beans cooking long and slow to a natural sauciness. You can soak the beans overnight or do the quick method of simmering them for an hour or so to soften. Do not throw out the brown cooking liquid – it will thicken during cooking and create the desired “creaminess”. Beans are a nutritional powerhouse – an excellent source of protein and loads of fiber, they are also low in Saturated Fat and Sodium, and very low in Cholesterol and a very good source of Vitamin C, Thiamin, Riboflavin, Niacin, Folate, Copper and Manganese. {Source: Health.com}
- 1 cup organic red beans
- 1 quart (4 cups) water
- 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
- sprinkle of red chile flakes
- ½ large yellow onion, diced (about 1 cup)
- 1 cup chopped sweet mini peppers
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 cloves fermented black garlic, smashed
- Additional 1-2 cups water
- ½ teaspoon of Liquid Smoke
- 2 Tablespoons tomato paste
- 1 bay leaf
- 2 Tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
- ½ teaspoon dried thyme
- Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
- Steamed white rice for serving
- Hot sauce for serving
- Pick through beans, removing all bad beans or any other particles. Wash beans well.
- Place beans in a 3 quart pot. Add 4 cups water. Lower heat and let beans boil slowly for an hour. When beans are soft stir well, mashing some against side of pot.Strain the beans, reserve and measure cooking liquid.
- Heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Sprinkle red chile flakes (optional). Cook the onions and sweet peppers in vegetable oil, stirring occasionally, until soft. Add the fresh garlic and cook for another minute.
- Add beans, cooking liquid and additional water to equal 3 cups of liquid, fermented garlic, tomato paste and herbs.
- Let simmer for 30 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and discard. Beans should be nice and creamy.
- Serve in individual bowls over rice. Garnish with a few drops of hot sauce and sprinkle with chopped parsley..
- Adapted from a recipe by Leah Chase, Chef/Owner, Dooky Chase's Restaurant, New Orleans.
Mardi Gras is the biggest celebration the city of New Orleans hosts every year and one heck of a two-week party. This magnificent, costumed, beaded and feathered party is laced with tradition and is all about having a good time! Mardi Gras 2016 is on Tuesday, February 9, 2016. Mardi Gras is not the same as Carnival which traditionally begins the 12th night after Christmas, also known as Epiphany. About two weeks before Mardi Gras, the parading begins! Every year Carnival parade organizations—known as “krewes”—are deep into preparations for their annual parades, costume balls and parties. Visit Louisiana Travel for parade schedules and to learn more about Mardi Gras, the Mardi Gras lingo, and Mardi Gras history!
Two years ago when I visited Biloxi, Mississippi and the surrounding area to learn about Gulf Coast cuisine and seafood, we visited the Mardi Gras Museum in Bay St. Louis. Like our Rose Parade, unless you’ve seen one of the krewe parades up close and personal, you cannot imagine the grandeur and detail of the costumes and pomp and circumstance that surrounds the celebrations. The museum displayed dozens of mind-blowing creative, richly sequined costumes. I snapped a few picks of the food and music related ones that caught my fancy.
Leah Chase is a national treasure and deservedly honored with a Lifetime Achievement Award by the James Beard Foundation this year. Read more about Leah Chase on Grub Street.
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