Macanese Lacassá soup.
Macau, the Gambling Capital of the World
Macau, the gambling capital of the world since 2006, dwarfs Las Vegas thanks to millions of mainland Chinese gamblers. Each year, millions of visitors, rich and poor, make the pilgrimage from Hong Kong and the Chinese mainland. The wealthy elite are helicoptered in while factory workers arrive on cramped coaches. During my last trip to Hong Kong, I took the high-speed ferry to Macau to explore, not the grandiose casino hotels that lure Chinese gamblers, but to experience the unique cuisine of Macau – the legacy of its Portuguese heritage.
Serradura
High-Speed Ferry to Macau
My predisposition for seasickness makes me very particular about weather conditions and, in the past, the wind and sea have not cooperated. It was serendipity that a tweet about traveling to Hong Kong prompted a reply from Macau’s Tourism Office (@macauusa) and David Wong (@davidwong1966). With that as a jumping off point, we were able to coordinate our schedules for me to visit the Educational Restaurant on the campus of the Institute for Tourism Studies. And, thankfully, Mother Nature cooperated with calm seas.
Grounds of the Educational Restaurant
Walking up the hill to the Educational Restaurant I meandered in the semi-tropical beauty of the campus which spreads below the site of Mong Há Fort, a newer fortress, built in anticipation of a Chinese invasion following the Anglo-Chinese War in 1841. Surrounded by verdant foliage and exotic flowers, gentle breezes relieved the humidity of brief on-and-off showers. The steamy serenity brought back memories of my year in the Hawaiian islands.
Portuguese Influence on Macanese Cuisine
Macanese cuisine is cooked with many ingredients that recall the unique history of Macau and its Portuguese maritime culture. During the 16th and 17th Century, Portugal energetically established a sea route to the East, paving the way for merchants engaged in the spice trade in Africa, India and the coast of Malacca, bringing, in turn, these spices and food cultures to Macau. Portuguese seamen and merchants married women from these regions as well as local Chinese in Macau resulting in an amalgamation of different foreign and Chinese ingredients and cooking styles which were gradually incorporated into traditional Portuguese dishes cooked by Macanese families over the past centuries.
Based on Portuguese cuisine, these spices and ingredients from Africa, Southeast Asia, and India – including curry, coconut milk, cloves and cinnamon – are combined using Chinese culinary skills in a wonderful potpourri of tastes and aromas, giving birth to the uniquely delicious Macanese cuisine of today.
Macanese Specialities:
Lacassá Soup on Christmas Eve
My host David Wong, Executive Assistant Manager of Food & Beverage at the Institute for Tourism Studies, Macau, made sure I tasted an array of Macanese specialties beginning with Lacassá Soup, a delicate shrimp soup that, because no meat is used in its preparation was traditionally eaten on Christmas Eve, a day of abstinence for Catholics. The dish lives on and still makes a wonderful Lenten or Fish Friday appetizer or entree.
Macanese Lacassá soup is a traditional Christmas Eve dish for Catholics.
Jamón Ibérico (or Pata Negra)
Any discussion of historical food culture includes curing meat and Macanese enjoy Jamón ibérico, Iberian ham, a type of cured ham produced mostly in Spain, but also in some Portuguese regions where it is called presunto ibérico or pata negra (black ham). Made from black Iberian pigs, Jamón ibérico is prized for its smooth texture and rich, savory taste.
Naturally, wine was consumed – David is quite the wine connoisseur – and at a midday meal a refreshing and refined Soalheiro Alvarinho 2013 from northern Portugal (Spain’s albariño, whose natural home, Galicia, is just over Portugal’s northern border with Spain) was perfect with the cured meat as well as the rich trio of savory dishes coming up.
Minchi – the expression of Portuguese, African, and Indian cultural influences
The best minchi is supposedly made by chopping the meat by hand using two cleavers (or parangs), but ground beef and pork is perfectly acceptable for the home cook. Served here with a soft quail egg, the savory minchi was perfectly seasoned and obviously hand-chopped.
Minchi
Essentially, the Macanese version of hash, it was a tie for favorite between the Minchi and the saucy Galinha à Africana (African Chicken) with exotic curry and coconut milk flavors, a dish that personifies the confluence of cuisines and cultures of Macau: pimenta comes from the Portuguese side, the peanut from the African, the spice from the Chinese, and the coconut from India.
Galinha à Africana (African Chicken)
Galinha à Africana (African Chicken)
Macanese Dessert Trio: Egg Tart, Serradura, and Mango Pudding
To round out our Macanese taste adventure, we were presented a trio of desserts: a cute mini Portuguese Egg Tart – a popular local and street food favorite in Macau; a sophisticated layered rendition of Serradura (pictured above) – serradura means “sawdust” in Portuguese and key to this bakery staple is a topping of crushed Maria cookies resembling sawdust; rounding out the trio was my fave – the luscious, velvety and tangy Mango Pudding.
“Exploring the best places to sample authentic local cuisine is an essential part of what makes a trip memorable. Gastronomic experiences – the taste, smells, colors, and textures of dishes you’ve savored – woven into the fabric of a culture and its people stay with you long after returning home.” {David Wong}
About the Educational Restaurant
The Educational Restaurant serves Macanese cuisine at very reasonable prices and is open to the public for lunch, high tea, and dinner. If you’re spending a day or two in Macau, I urge you to make a reservation and explore the exotic blend of flavor profiles that come together in the dishes that are unique to Macau. Most of what you see here is available on the menu and I’m happy to share the recipe for Lacassá Soup, courtesy of the Macau Government Tourist Office, for you to make at home.
- 500 g or 1 pound Medium size shrimps
- 50 g or 1.5 ounces Balichão Shrimp paste
- 1 Pack rice flour vermicelli
- 400 g or 14 ounces onion chopped
- 1 Green onion chopped
- 60 ml or 4 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 pcs bay leaf
- Pepper & Salt
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Wash and peel the shrimps, season with salt and pepper, cut into 1/2 inch pieces.
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Bring 5 liters (or 5 quarts ) of water to a boil. Place the vermicelli in a strainer and quickly scald the vermicelli in the boiling water, remove and set aside. Then add the shrimp shells and boil for about 15 minutes.
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Strain the broth and reserve.
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Stir the onion, bay leaves and “balichão” in olive oil and add shrimps, broth and finally the vermicelli in a gradual way, in order to maintain consistency of soup. Simmer for about half an hour, adjust the seasoning. Remove the bay leaves and sprinkle the chopped spring onions before serving.
* Recipe from Macau Government Tourist Office
I converted the metric measurements to U.S. following their recipe exactly. I think that you can cut the amount of olive oil down to 2-3 tablespoons.
Pin the collage to your Pinterest boards if you would like to make the Lacassá soup, or for future travel plans or inspiration!
What an adventure, Priscilla! I soooooooooooo enjoyed this post!! xo
Thanks so much, Ally! Adventure find us, doesn’t it 😉
Of course I knew about the English influence in Hong Kong but I didn’t know that the Portuguese had such an influence on China. Much more interesting than gambling! GREG
Waaaay more interesting than gambling! Thanks, Greg 🙂
I went to Macau once, on a day trip from Hong Kong. What a fascinating place. Great job on the post.
Thank you, Kalyn. Istanbul is at the top of my list, so I’m excited to read about your trip!